Skyward

The entire city as a museum

Sometimes it’s worth looking up. Who would expect to see royalty looking down on diners above the entrance to a McDonald’s? The building near the main train station, on the corner of Trankgasse and Marzellenstraße, was constructed in 1912 as the high-end hotel Fürsten-Hof, designed by Carl Moritz. The princely statue was created by sculptor Georg Grasegger, a Bavarian who, after studying in Munich, moved to Cologne in 1901 and stayed there until his death in 1927.

Georg Grasegger, war memorial in Friedenspark (Hindenburgpark), Cologne 1927

Georg Grasegger, war memorial in Friedenspark (Hindenburgpark), Cologne 1927, Photo: Willy Horsch via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0

A professor at trade schools throughout Cologne, he created many sculptures that can still be seen throughout the city. But as is often the case with public art, some of it was contested, some destroyed in the war, some politically reinterpreted, and details have been lost over time …

One example of this is Grasegger's Fastnacht Fountain on Gülichplatz in the old town, not far from the Wallraf Richartz Museum. The location is packed with history: It originally served as the residence of Nikolaus Gülich, who protested against the cronyism prevalent in the town government, and was executed in 1686. The property was to stay undeveloped forever, and an admonishing memorial bearing Gülich's likeness was intended to remind others not to disrespect the upper echelons of society. The French demolished it in 1797, and Gülich was viewed as a hero during the revolutionary period. The square was then left empty until 1913, when Grasegger won the competition to redesign it. His bronze Fastnacht Fountain consists of a high basin with a protruding spindle that the water flows from. It's also worth taking a closer look, because then you will notice four heads on the basin - a member of the "Rote Funken", a woman, a fool, and a dockworker. Standing atop them are couples from the "Hellige Knäächte un Mägde" dance troupe. Encircling the fountain is a quote from Goethe on Karneval in Cologne, "a great endeavour when it's short and with purpose". Despite these carefully crafted details, the fountain was controversial and in 1914 it was derided as a "washing tub" and "public pool". Cologne's symbol, the two-headed eagle, sits at the very top. The fountain was damaged in the First World War. Visitors who look up today will see the "Lotterbov" created by Grasegger in 1924, a chubby, drumming cherub with a pipe in his mouth (after all, the project was sponsored by the tobacco company Haus Neuerburg at Gülichplatz). The cherub was stolen in 1999, but thankfully Konrad Adenauer - the grandson of the mayor - had a model on hand so that it could be replicated.

Grasegger participated in multiple sculpture competitions in the public space, but did not always win, such as when he conceded defeat to Franz Brantzky’s Römerbrunnen in 1910. However, we are still able to see Grasegger’s works just around the corner, at the Unter Sachsenhausen bank building (now: Generali Versicherung) or at Deutz Station.

Another of his works can be seen flying high in the city’s south: the giant eagle in the park near the Südbrücke. This was dedicated to the “Heroes of 1914-1918” from Cologne in 1926, after the British occupiers withdrew from the city.

The eagle is certainly the highlight of the memorial. One historical photo shows Grasegger in his studio standing before the massive bird, its wings clipped (the original wingspan of 6.5 metres would not have fit in the room). The eagle, in all probability made from melted cannons, is heavily stylised. Its streamlined shape is reminiscent of a warplane, a comparison made even easier by the red paint on the eagle and stele. The area formerly known as the Hindenburgpark was renamed Friedenspark in 1985. One year later, the band Bläck Fööss stated in their song “Ungerm Adler” that there should no longer be any war. Martial attitudes have no place in modern society. Grasegger’s eagle soars above the playground of a children’s and youth centre with climbing walls. To this day, it’s worth taking a look up in downtown Cologne, 1912 …

Info

More on Grasegger and his work can be found in the extensive publication by Gerhard Dietrich: Die Welt ins Bildhafte zu reißen … Georg Grasegger 1873–1927. Ein bayerischer Bildhauer in Köln. Leben und Werk, Cologne 2020

Museums in Cologne also contain sculptures by Grasegger, including in the Kölnisches Stadtmuseum (Cologne City Museum).

Text: Mario Kramp